Sorry about the absurd pun, I just had to use it at least once while I'm here. Since the past couple of weeks haven't really consisted of anything culturally significant, I apologize for my silence on the blog. I thought that I might dedicate this blog to the everyday life here in Morocco. I apologize for the lack of pictures, I couldn't figure out how to fit them into the narrative. First off, some of the most distinct differences between here and Montana:
The most noticeable difference that I have found is the lack of personal space that is allowed for. Possibly because I am from Montana and we have a lot of space that we are allowed to take up, but more likely because that is the way that our culture generally operates. I believe that my friend put it best when I, in paroxysms of claustrophobia demanded to know how they could stand constantly being touched by people. She replied that that is the way you know you're not alone, that is the way that you can viscerally feel life around you. Another friend put it more succinctly by saying it's like feeling up the world.
Another thing that I discovered that originally annoyed me to no end was the method of walking here on campus. Everyone seemed to be in my way. I couldn't figure it out at first and was quite annoyed on my frequent commutes across campus. I later heard from one of my friends who I was ranting to that they just walk on the other side. This is perplexing since Moroccans drive on the same side of the road as Americans do, however, allegedly they walk on the other side. Imagine my sheepishness to discover that rather than being the wronged one, I was causing the problem. I later discovered that this is not really true or a rule and that I'm just greedy or impatient about my walking space.
Being a Muslim country, there is no pork here. I did not think this would be something that I would even notice. However, when you're eating scrambled eggs in the morning, you suddenly realize that the most wonderful thing that you could have at that moment in addition, would be a nice slice of bacon. It was incredibly exciting when we were in Spain to have delicious pork! I hope I don't offend anyone's sensibilities by being rather fond of the haram (forbidden) food.
Since I am here to study Arabic, I was a little bit distressed to find that the Arabic that is taught in schools is not actually spoken anywhere in the wide world! The dialect that is spoken here in Morocco is called Dareja. There are many words that are the same from Modern Standard Arabic (Fusa) but you just remove all of the vowels which makes pronunciation tricky. However, many words are also different and if you try to speak in Fusa to many people, they look at you as if you have bananas instead of ears. However, speaking Arabic is one of my favorite things to do here.
When you go up to greet someone, it is customary, depending on how well you know them, or at least people in their presence, to press your cheeks on each side and make kissing noises. I have often made the mistake of impulsively hugging my friends when I see them and only realize my mistake when I feel them struggling to pull back and kiss my cheeks. Often, when you haven't seen someone for awhile, the cheek touching continues up to six times. This can certainly make for awkward situations if you don't know which direction is being initiated and I have learned to just hold onto the shoulders of the person I am greeting in order to anticipate their next move.
If you are to greet someone by shaking hands, it is not important to give a firm handshake, it is not a judge of character as it is in the US. The first time I shook a man's hand here, it was so floppy that I just kind of held it like a dead fish and wondered what to do with it. There was one wild moment when I wondered if I should kiss it. You're also supposed to touch your heart after shaking hands with the same hand you shook with as a gesture of sincerity.
There are many many cats in this country. Some find it gross but I love it! There are so many colors and types that you're sure to see a new one around every street corner. I especially like to see how so many of them are so healthy. This may be largely to the fact that most cafes you walk into, you can find either the proprietor or a patron reaching down with a bit of cheese or chicken for the waiting kitty. Many people I have met here tend to enjoy looking at them and even drop bits of food down for them from time to time but make disgusted noises when I scratch them behind the ears or pet them.
In general, Moroccans are the most hospitable people I have ever met. I discovered that it's actually part of the culture, at least the Amazigh (Berber) culture. The first time I saw the word Amazigh, I thought that it was just a groovy way to spell amazing, shows you how much I know! There is a story about a boy who was supposed to take care of his father's camels. However, visitors kept coming to the camp and he would slaughter one to honor them and feed them. At the end of the story, there were no more camels left and he was left destitute but he was the most honored person in the village.
I look very foreign, which prompts Moroccans to speak to me in French which causes me to have to repeat and repeat myself until they realize that I am speaking Arabic. Once they realize I'm speaking Arabic however, they delightedly shake my hand and tell me that I am welcome there. I've also found that taking the time to exchange the standard pleasantries which are generally repeated for the first five minutes of a conversation, tends to make friends in the marketplace and get better deals.
Things that I will miss once I leave:
My Moroccan friends
Speaking Dareja and surprising the nice shop keepers with what little I know
The prices, you can get a hotel, albeit a slightly sketchy one, for under $5!
Ghilal yogurt, it's delicious and is wheat flavored
Traveling every weekend!
Possibly even the call to prayer which is very handy to mark the passage of time
Things I miss from Montana:
Friends and Family
Talking about science but that's just because I'm at a liberal arts school
My kitty
Mountains
Ice
Understanding what's going on!
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